For new clients, the bespoke process starts with a style consultation. It is important that we understand your current wardrobe, aspirations, employment, hobbies, & pastimes in order to make qualified offers to you.
CUTTING YOUR UNIQUE PATTERN
Thom Bennett is a true-bespoke tailor as such not only takes your measures Thom also hand-cuts a pattern uniquely designed to fit your figuration and style expectations. Once cut this master pattern will follow you through your sartorial journey with Thom Bennett Bespoke. We use your master pattern to create any other style of trouser, coat, or overcoat, meaning, fit remains constant.
YOUR SUIT IS BORN
"Striking the cloth" is a job traditionally performed by the tailor's under-cutter. Here at Thom Bennett Bespoke, Thom personally strikes the cloth to ensure exactness when transferring the pattern to your bespoken fabric. This stage of the process is where the uniqueness of the human form is worked into the pattern. Like someone's dropped, or forward shoulder. Or "rotating" the pattern to allow space for a rounded hip formed by a curvature in the spine, accompanying the dropped shoulder.
IT STARTS WITH A SKELETON
Thom will always start a new pattern regardless of the time you have been with us with a "skeleton" baste. A skeleton fitting is the coat's outer shell with the canvas put in along with the sleeves and under-collar. There are no pockets in case an armhole may need to bringing forward maybe the length needs adjusting. Occasionally the balance is slightly out. A tailor can take the measures until placed onto the three-dimensional figure it can never be sure that the pattern is correct.
REMARK AND REMAKE
After the first fitting Thom will dismantle the coat, broken down, or "ripped", then smoothed out with an iron back to a flat two-dimensional form. The parts are then remarked with the alterations from the fitting. Then the manila pattern is updated ready for the next garment.
POCKETS IN AND FACINGS ON
This is the Forward Fitting. At this point, the side seams are married together on the sewing machine along with the pockets. The canvas is permanently attached to the skin at strategic locations. The lapels are padded into that archetypal bespoke roll, that only the skilled hands of a tailor can achieve. Finally, the lapel facings and top collar are attached to the coat. With the basting in of the sleeves, the coat looks like the finished article.
ALL BAR HOLES
With the details now finalised after the second fitting, the coat is now brought to completion, bar finishing. Now the sleeves are lined and inserted to the armhole with fine hand sewing with sewing silk. The shoulder seams receive the same hand-sewn treatment. The top collar and facings are now attached with white basting thread ready for the final fitting and evaluation by both you the client and Thom.
YOUR SUIT SIR!
Between the final fitting and the pressing-off, now the coat is finished. The linings felled in, the buttonholes cut and hand-sewn, with a Milanese flower-hole on the lapel. Next, the coat goes through a two-hour pressing-off before the buttons firmly attached. Finally, the coat is brushed, hung on a luxury hanger then lovingly placed into one of our English made breathable cotton drill garment bags from Concept Covers ready to be shipped to you or collected from the Bristol Studio for a final check over with Thom.